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Home›Costumes›Costume Designers Guild nominations include ‘Dune’, ‘House of Gucci’, ‘Cruella’, ‘West Side Story’

Costume Designers Guild nominations include ‘Dune’, ‘House of Gucci’, ‘Cruella’, ‘West Side Story’

By Helga Soares
January 26, 2022
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Sci-fi/fantasy ‘Dune’ and period pieces ‘Cruella’, ‘Cyrano’, ‘House of Gucci’, ‘Nightmare Alley’ and ‘West Side Story’ were nominated for the 24th Annual Costume Designers on Wednesday Guild Awards (coming soon). live on March 9 at the Broad Stage in Santa Monica).

Other sci-fi/fantasy nominees include “The Green Knight”, “The Matrix Resurrections”, “Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings” and DC’s “Spider-Man: No Way Home” and ” DC’s The Suicide Squad. .” Contemporary nods went to “Coming 2 America”, “Don’t Look Up”, “In the Heights”, “No Time to Die”, and “Zola”.

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The biopics “Being the Ricardos”, “Respect”, “Spencer” and “The Eyes of Tammy Faye” were left out, as were “Belfast”, “Licorice Pizza”, “Passing”, “The French Dispatch”, “The More They Fall”, “The Power of the Dog” and “The Tragedy of Macbeth”.

As far as Oscar contention goes, ‘Dune’, Cruella’, ‘House of Gucci’, ‘Nightmare Alley’ and ‘West Side Story’ seem to be the favorites, with ‘Coming 2 America’ (winner of the Oscar “Black Panther”) Ruth Carter) and “Cyrano” (co-designed by “Little Women” and Oscar-winning “Anna Karenina” Jacqueline Durran) also in the running.

However, Denis Villeneuve’s “Dune” has the edge, given the imagination and breadth of Jacqueline West and Robert Morgan’s wardrobes. They went more “modern-medieval” than traditional futuristic, referencing nomadic desert tribes, Greek mythology and paintings by Goya. However, the intricate gray suit of the Fremen from the desert planet, Arrakis, was the innovative centerpiece, allowing them to survive through the sophisticated fluid recycling system. It had to look functional yet stylish, and was form-fitting and otherworldly. Cloaks and gauze cloaks served as camouflage and robes gave an aura of romance.

“Maison Gucci” - Credit: United Artists Releasing

“House of Gucci” – Credit: United Artists Releasing

United Artists Liberating

With Ridley Scott’s “House of Gucci,” Oscar-winning actress Janty Yates (“Gladiator”) recreated the iconic period of the 80s and 90s, wrapping it around Lady Gaga’s flamboyant Patrizia Reggiani. Yates scoured Reggiani’s archives (she adored Dior and Yves Saint Laurent) and found some fun stuff, including a pink evening gown that was transformed into red satin for her first meeting with Adam Driver’s Maurizio, and a much more attractive wedding dress covered in lace.

Meanwhile, two-time Oscar winner Jenny Beavan (“Mad Max: Fury Road,” “A Room With a View”) delivered a recycled fabric design to dress Emma Stone’s subversive fashion designer in ” Cruella” by Disney. Beavan tapped into her own childhood memories of 70s London fashion by finding a bow for Cruella, who transforms from a rebellious child into a fashion sensation. She used 70s, military and fantasy inspirations. But the star is the red dress: a deconstruction of a prestigious vintage evening dress designed by the evil baroness of Emma Thompson. The ultimate goal was to make sure you could believe Cruella could possibly look like Glenn Close in the 90s live-action redesign.

“Cruella” - Credit: Laurie Sparham/Disney

“Cruella” – Credit: Laurie Sparham/Disney

Laurie Sparham/Disney

For Steven Spielberg’s late ’50s revamp of “West Side Story” (Fox), Tony Award-winning costume designer Paul Tazewell (“Hamilton”) helped define the differences between the gangs Jets and Sharks rivals through their wardrobes. The Irish Jets wore the popular denim jackets and jeans to look cool like Brando and Dean, while the Puerto Rican Sharks were dressed up nicer with florals. Puerto Rican women were very elegant and colorful. Of course, the clothes were customized to be looser because of the dance. But the overall aesthetic adhered to a greater naturalism.

Oscar nominee Luis Sequeira (“The Shape of Water”) created a wide range of wardrobes for the blackish remake of Guillermo del Toro’s “Nightmare Alley” (Searchlight), but the main goal was to outfit ruthless crook Bradley Cooper, who journeys from carny underworld to high society glamor in the early 1940s. At first, his old tweed clothes don’t fit properly, but as he rises into high society as a successful mentalist, her tailored wardrobe becomes more stylish and sexy. The trick was to find cohesion for this chameleon.

Below is the full list of nominations for the 24th CDGA:

Excellence in Science Fiction/Fantasy Film
“Dune” – Jacqueline West and Robert Morgan
“The Green Knight” – Malgosia Turzanska
“The Matrix Resurrections” – Lindsay Pugh
“Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings” – Kym Barrett
“Spider-Man: No Way Home” – Sanja M. Hays
“The Suicide Squad” – Judianna Makovsky

Excellence in contemporary cinema
“Coming 2 America” ​​- Ruth E. Carter
“Don’t Look Up” – Susan Matheson
“In the Heights” – Mitchell Travers
“No time to die” – Suttirat Anne Larlarb
“Zola” – Derica Cole Washington

Excellence in Period Film
“Cruel” – Jenny Beavan
“Cyrano” – Massimo Cantini Parrini & Jacqueline Durran
“House of Gucci” – Janty Yates
“Nightmare Alley” – Luis Sequeira
“West Side Story” – Paul Tazewell

Excellence in Science Fiction/Fantasy Television
“The Boba Fett Book”: Chapter 1 – Shawna Trpcic
“The Handmaid’s Tale”: Nightshade – Debra Hanson
“Loki”: Journey into Mystery – Christine Wada
“What We Do in the Shadows”: Gail – Laura Montgomery
“The Witcher”: Family – Lucinda Wright

Excellence in Contemporary Television
“Emily in Paris”: French Revolution – Patricia Field & Marylin Fitoussi
“Euphoria”: Fuck Anyone Ain’t a Sea Blob – Heidi Bivens
“Hacks”: Pilot – Kathleen Felix-Hager
“Mare of Easttown”: Miss Ladyhawk herself – Meghan Kasperlik
“Squid Game”: VIPS – Cho Sang-kyung

Excellence in Period Television
“The Great”: Seven Days – Sharon Long
“Halston”: Becoming Halston – Jeriana San Juan
“The Underground Railroad”: Chapter 8: Indiana Autumn – Caroline Eselin-Schaefer
“WandaVision”: Filmed in front of a live studio audience – Mayes C. Rubeo
“What We Do in the Shadows”: The Wellness Center – Laura Montgomery

Excellence in Variety, Reality TV, Live TV
“Annie live! – Emilio Sosa”
“Dancing with the Stars”: Semi-Finals – Daniela Gschwendtner & Steven Norman Lee
“The Late Late Show with James Corden”: Crosswalk Cinderella – Lauren Shapiro
“The Masked Singer”: 2 Night Season Premiere, Part 2: Back to School – Marina Toybina & Gabrielle Letamendi
“Saturday Night Live”: Rami Malek / Young Thug – Tom Broecker & Eric Justian

Excellence in designing short forms
“The Bold Type: “Cruella” (Commercial) – Mandi Line
Cadillac: Edgar Scissorhands with Timothée Chalamet, “Hands Free” (Commercial) – Melissa DesRosiers
Ed Sheeran: “Shivers” (music video) – Ami Goodheart
Snoop Dogg’s Triller: Fight Club “We’re Bringing Boxing Back” (Commercial) – Dawn Ritz
Swarovski: “Welcome to Wonderlab” (Advertisement) – B. Åkerlund

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